Woods Hole -> Cuttyhunk -> Newport, ball

After a lovely and quiet night near Woods Hole we planned on going to Cuttyhunk. Cuttyhunk is the western-most point on the Elizabeth Islands; After lies a stretch of open water until you hit Long Island. Well, there's a small island in between but, pfft! It's open water.

We thought we'd stay at Cuttyhunk and head to Newport in the morning. But the weather was so amazing, and that open water was like glass. Moreover, it wasn't clear how nice it would be in the morning. It wasn't going to be nice by the afternoon, and we're not fans of small weather gaps.

Hard not to run when the water looks like this.

So after some lunch and naps Russ and I headed onward to Newport.

We'd had made ball requests in Newport a couple of days ago. We were put on a waitlist. So when we arrived, given we still hadn't heard, we start looking at anchorages. Russ decided to just call the harbor master and see if anything was available. Sure enough, they had a ball. Go figure! We could even stay for 4 nights.

The mooring field in Newport. One of the biggest
we've ever stayed at.

That's what we plan to do. I've been wanting to do the hike here, and we didn't get a chance to a couple of months ago, either due to weather or timing. Fingers crossed!

Boston to Wood's Hole, anchor

This is a long one... so buckle up!

While we love Boston it was time to be moving along. The folks at Charlesgate Yacht Club are very gracious, and we're looking forward to staying with them in the future.

First everyone needed to either fuel up of pump out. Task one for the day was get across the Boston Harbor, and while Highwind fueled up (the docks are in separate locations at this fuel station), then we switched. Worked well -- pumped out, fueled up, and ready for the day.

The first 5 or 6 hours we a little choppy. Not the worst we've experienced, but it made watching for prop traps particularly fatiguing. 

Once done we got a "break" going through the Cape Cod Canal. something I was looking forward too. Especially since we had the tide with us, adding 4 knots to our speed. But the boats going the other way all felt they needed to make up the -4 knots with speed, making for massive waking. There are "no wake" signs when you enter, but clearly it's optional.

Passing Highwind on Cape Cod Bay.

The last hour or so was on Buzzard's Bay, and it was ideal. Wonderful water, blue skies, moderate temps. It was a nice end to a long 8 hour run.

We had plans on taking a ball at the marina in Woods Hole, but when we arrived there was only 1 ball available, even though we thought they reserved 2. Since we were ahead of Highwind we swapped texts and decided to anchor in the inner harbor, specifically Hadley Harbor. Hannah and David spent a night there on the trip up a couple of months ago, and raved about it. But it, too, was full. So they dropped a hook (that anchorage was also full but he eeked out a decent spot -- apparently, this is a hot spot on Labor Day Weekend), and we tied up to them.

Like we've done so many times before...

The evening dinghy ride back from dinner
in Woods Hole.

Once set we all piled into dinghies and headed to explore Woods Hole, which was hopping on this Labor Day. We needed 2 dinghies since Hannah's folks, who are boaters too, were aboard Highwind for a week.

We've always known that there might be some occasion where we'd have to do an emergency release, and odds are it wouldn't be in great conditions. Well, that time had come.

I woke to the boat bouncing around 11:30. The winds had come up significantly (20-25 knots) and we were bucking, which isn't unusual or even uncomfortable. There had been "small craft advisories" all day, so this wasn't a huge surprise. On a whim I checked my phone. David who was still up, and had been texting us about the worsening conditions. Nothing other than "I'm still monitoring" type of texts. But I remembered there was a low point near us. I went up to the helm to check our depth. Sure enough we had 2.3 feet under the keel. In bouncing conditions this didn't please me. I texted that info to David, and the decision to reset was made.

Engines on within minutes, lines were tossed and inQuest got away from Highwind. It's one thing to  maneuver in a crowded anchorage on a moonless night surrounded by rock, it's another to do that in a 20 knot blow. With Russ on the bow and the use of our spot light we got out of Highwind's way so they could reset. They hailed to come on back.

After a few minutes (staying station was NOT fun even for that short time) they hailed all good. We carefully rejoined them, another small feat but it all went well. By the way, Hannah's folks were a huge help as they had a crew of three catching lines and getting us snugged.

Engines off we all took a breath. Our depth went to 17 feet, so we were relieved. However, we managed to get closer to some other boats in the anchorage. And we didn't feel comfortable with that in these winds -- boats swing, and with 2 boats tied together we swing differently. And these winds were forecasted to last well into morning.

We all looked at charts. Outside this small anchorage was a much larger one, more exposed to the weather, but (I noticed while coming back from town) was totally empty. We picked our anchor points ahead of moving, giving each boat a destination before heading out. That helped with coordination. This time we'd drop separate hooks and discuss next steps in the morning.

Engines on again, lines tossed, and inQuest headed into the wind through the small channel, bucking while crossing the narrowest point. Yep, this could be a rough night, but at least we'd have space to swing. As we turned toward our spot we got just enough shelter that the ride calmed a bit.

Highwind and inQuest, side by side.
Alas, it wouldn't last.

We dropped our hook, which caught wonderfully, then put out a ton of rode. Next we decided to put up our dinghy (which had been attached to our hip all this time). Given the rougher water it would only keep bumping into our hull all night. Putting it up in this weather was tricky -- we both wore PFDs for the process.

But after ALL that we were finally able to rest. The night was a little bumpy but not the worst we'd experience. By the time we went to sleep it was 2 am.

So, why didn't we just do this anchorage to begin with? Because this anchorage was off the main channel. Woods Hole is what high speed ferries pass through between Newport and Martha's Vineyard or Nantucket. Their wakes finally got us up and out of bed around 7 am.

We took a walk to the Nobska Lighthouse

After breakfast we lowered the dinghy and scoped out the rest of Hadley's Bay. To our surprise there were a couple of mooring balls available in there, and it was dead calm. We dashed back to inQuest and texted Highwind.

And that's where we are spending this evening. Which is looking to be oh so much calmer than last night.

Salem to Boston, marina

Even though the trip was only 3 hours, we knew the weather was going to get snotty as the day went on. The winds, which had been so placid for the last week, kicked up over night. Small craft advisories surrounded the area. So, we left as the sun came up.

That said it wasn't a bad ride at all. A little lumpy on the nose but nothing worth fretting over.

We're back in Boston, and back at Charlesgate Yacht club.. Given our early start we did have to wait for "commute times" to end (which is 9:10 am) before the train bridge would open. We floated around the little bay between the lock and Tower A for about 20 minutes. They opened the bridge at the stroke of 9:10, which was quite punctual.

Foggy morning while in Salem. Thankfully, clear the day we left.

That's a skunk. While walking at sunset in Salem we noticed this
critter in someone's garden.

On the water at dawn, heading to Boston

Sharing the tiny lock with Highwind.

The yacht club is allowing us to stay through the holiday weekend. We're thrilled. Good to be back in Boston.

Rockport to Salem, ball

The weather continued to be awesome for our small ride west to Salem, Massachusetts. We started around 7:30 in the morning and arrived around 9:45.

Two years ago we came to the area but didn't stay in Salem but rather Beverly, the town nearby. To get to Salem we needed to take a short train ride. This time we were able to get a ball in Salem Harbor. The marina provides a launch, to getting to town is easy. We plan on exploring it a bit since we'll be here for a couple of nights.

But let me tell you about Rockport! This was only our second visit (we anchored in the same bay just a couple of weeks ago on our way up). But we didn't get to shore. Fellow boaters, the crew of No Rush, mentioned it was a cute town. We made an effort to explore it.

Dinghy dock at low tide. Get on the floating dock,
then climb the slippery 15 foot ladder!
At high tide it's only 4 feet.

Our first night there, however, we noticed a large Victorian looking home with blue neon lights on it. Curious I looked through binoculars to see what it was. To my surprise, it was some kind of music venue -- I could see the orchestra seats. After a quick google search, we bought tickets to hear a string quartet the following evening.

So, we enjoyed some cinnamon donuts at the Brother's Brew coffee shop. For lunch/dinner we ate lobster rolls at Rob Moore Lobster Company followed by ice cream (which was amazing) at The Ice Cream Store. From there, we walked to the Rockport Music Shalin Liu Performance Center and listened to some Bach, Mozart, and Brahms. Awesome day.

inQuest in the Rockport anchorage.

Main street in Rockport.

The performance center. Beautiful venue. We heard a string
quartet perform Bach, a quintet perform Mozart...

...and a piano quartet perform Brahms. You can see how
we saw inside the venue. In fact, if you zoom, you can see inQuest from here.

The view after music and heading back to the boat.

Awesome sunset in Salem.

Falmouth to Rockport, anchor

By the map's travel line you can tell it was a bit of indecision. First we thought we'd go to Kittery. Then we decided, since the day was awesome, we'd go all the way to Rockport. Then we decided that would make for an unnecessarily long day and there's no reason to rush so we'd go to Isle of Shoals. But they were full, given the absolutely glorious weather and water (and it was Saturday, so everyone could be out and about on a boat). So we just made it a long day and headed to Rockport.

We had no real plans to jam south but it wasn't hard at all to spend 8 hours on the Atlantic. Rare, indeed.

That makes us a little ahead of schedule. We have plans to spend Labor Day weekend in Boston. So we'll stay here for a couple of nights. 

Early start to the morning, up before dawn in Falmough

Waving goodbye to Portland as we pass it and the old fort.

Lighthouse marking the Portland entrance. Everything is so pretty in morning light.

How good was the weather? The wind speed is 0.1 knots.

Love the Atlantic when it looks like this.

Morning in Rockport. Calm now, but it will bustle with boaters once the day gets going. We plan on getting one last lobster roll here, even though we're  not in Maine anymore. Hello, Massachusetts.

Maddock to Falmouth, anchor

After staying 3 nights in a quiet (albeit gloomy) anchorage the weather allowed us to make an earnest effort to start heading south. We begin unwinding our travels. First stop, back to Portland, or Falmouth which was close by.

The trip was amazing, one of the best "open water" journeys. We were underway for 3.5 hours, most of that was on the Atlantic.

There's a huge mooring field in Falmouth called Handy Boat. Alas, they only had a ball for Highwind, so we anchored off an island nearby. We had a very quiet night, so that was awesome.

Gloomy but gorgeous anchorage in Maddock.
Had it been nicer we'd have canoed and swum.

Today we DO have a ball reservation at Handy, so we'll move this afternoon. We'll stay for a couple of nights, try to do one last round of lobster here in Maine before leaving on Saturday.

Lovely day for an ocean cruise.

One of the more interesting lighthouses we've seen.
We've passed this one 4 times now. Finally got a good pic.

Boothbay to Maddock Cove, anchor

We checked out one cove first, before moving.
to our final anchorage.

When we woke Sunday morning the rough seas from yet another hurricane were seeping their way into our harbor, giving us a steady and substantial rock. We decided not to linger. Everyone got pumped out (there's a boat for that, so very handy), weighed anchor, and headed back into the islands to seek some quiet.

That make for a very short day. And a very quiet night.

The lobster place at Boothbay. HOPPIN'!

Quiet and lovely. Not sure if we'll see the sun while here.

Bath to Hockomock Bay, anchor

Of the Hell Gate's we've been through
this one is worth watching tides for.

While it would be easy to get to Booth Bay from here, our ultimate destination, we're slow boating, taking the days in tiny chunks. This is the most beautiful section of Maine so why rush it? Besides that way we break up going through Hell Gate and Little Hell Gate. Seem logical.

We spent 2 nights on the Bath Town dock which was thoroughly enjoyable. The town is right there, with a number of eateries, a brewery, and a damn fine bakery -- better than any we found in Portland. Just sayin'.

Given Hannah and David had to work in the morning we all made sure the hook was down by 9 am. 

Boats on the Bath Town Dock.
No cleats, but a hefty dock around 200 feet.

Nothing left to do but enjoy the view and the day.

Note, this anchorage was described as having a "100% perfect sunset guarantee by the Main Board of Tourism." Something to look forward too.

Bath continues to be where military boats are made, the Bath Iron Works.
Nearby is the site of the Percy and Small boat yard, now a museum, 
famed for building 4, 5, and 6 masted schooners. This "art" shows the
size and shape of such a vessel. Until you're here you don't get just
 how massive it is. A must see if you're in the area. 

Admittedly, that's a pretty nice sunset.

Portland to Bath, wall

While still hiding from the Atlantic as much as we could we skittered about the islands until we absolutely had to go outside. Thankfully, it was a little roll-y but mostly harmless (still settling from the hurricane). We only had to bear that for about an hour and, with the exception of having to steer around crab and lobster traps (I still call them "prop traps"), it was dandy.

Navionics, the mapping tool we use, took us on a small cutoff off the ocean, rather than continue a bit further to get into the main channel. It looked good on paper. But we told Highwind not to try it. Due to the tide/current/winds colliding it created some standing waves that were around 4 or 5 feet. We struggled against the current and it wasn't particularly deep there. At one point I saw 3.5 feet beneath us. It ended fine, but created a needless amount of fret.

Maine is glorious cruising.

Two years ago we'd been to Bath. That time we came from Booth Bay and went through Hell Gate to get to Bath. The plan is to do that in reverse when we leave; head to Booth Bay from here. That will be our northernmost point this year. We'll basically turn around and head back to Baltimore.

Also, last time we moored on a ball outside a boating museum. It was one of the more harrowing moors we've ever been on, with and out going current around 5 knots and a sketchy mooring ball. This year we're staying at the town dock, which is free. But we noticed the museum no longer has balls, and built a dock wall as well. Good thing! It seriously was terrifying. Our plan B was to stay there if this pier was full.

Lovely boating day.